Apulia: The Hidden Jewel

OUR 8-DAY TOUR IN APULIA

 Day 1: 10 July 2013

 We arrived to Bari Port in the morning where we were met by Enza Sgaramella, one of our guides (who would become very soon our friends) with a smiling face. She drove us to Andria, her native place, where we were going to spend eight days. On the road, she shared with us her enthusiasm, love, and knowledge of her region and fast enough we all felt quite relaxed and comfortable. Upon arrival to Andria we were greeted by Roberta Attimonelli, our second guide, and soon we entered our room in B&B Delle Imperatrici. The room was spacious, clean, with the warmth and the authenticity of an old Apulian house. We were particularly thrilled with its arcade architecture.
 We started our Andria stay with a walking tour of Andria's main streets accompanied by Enza who showed us various shops and gave us a brief review of Andria's history. After having succulent lunch at a local cafe, we continued our Andria walking tour in the lower part of the city where we crossed numerous charming narrow streets and admired beautiful old churches and The Torre dell'Orologio. It was time for an afternoon siesta, so we went back to our lovely room. We headed next to Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, an imposing church enclosing many precious items. In the chapel bearing his name are found San Riccardo's relics (the city patron) and the crypt of the cathedral houses the remains of two of Frederick II of Swabia's wives: Isabella of England and Yolanda of Brienne. We met Antonio, a real nice person who promised to show us "The Holy Thorn" some other time. We will talk about it later. We visited next a 13th century church with gothic style gates and Teutonic eagles, the chiesa san Agostino. We recited a little prayer and went back to our room to rest and prepare ourselves for dinner.
 Daniele, Enza's husband, a very kind person, was the one who drove us to our next destination: Masseria Barbera in the Minervino region. We equally met Luana, their adorable little daughter, a beautiful angel with whom we all fell in love. The Masseria is a farmhouse in the countryside surrounded by natural as well as man-made elements. We had a very relaxing stroll among trees, grapes, Pathways of herbs, flowers, haystacks and a collection of farm animals (pigs, goats, rabbits, chicken...). We had a copious dinner consisting of some pasta specialties and a buffet of local products. The olive oil was great and we were amused by some huge pot filled with some kind of tomato cooked in a traditional way. It was around dinner table that we met Roberta's fiancé, Nicola, who will be of a great help for us at the end of our tour, and Pasqua (our third guide) with her nice husband Nicola. We had a lovely night surrounded by very friendly people. We already felt at home!!!!

 Day 2: 11 July 2013

 Today we are heading to the Gargano region. After having had a fast breakfast in a local cafeteria, we met Pietro, Enza's father, who was going to join us for the day along with Enza. Pietro is a punctual, reliable person, genuinely devoted to his Apulian region. He is a caring and good-hearted person. We always had a good time and lot of fun when he was behind the steering wheel. On our way northwards, we were delighted with the scenery, particularly with the scores of pelicans roaming on open water. Our first destination was San Giovanni Rotondo, home of Padre Pio from age thirty until his death. We started with the old church, the old crypt, his cell and his religious habits and belongings. We were stunned by the number of letters (thousands!) he received and that he actually took the time to read!. After that, we moved to the new sanctuary where the saint's body is laid to rest. The huge oval room (second-largest church in the world) is an impressive display of decorative art (stone of Apricena, floor designs, stained-glass windows...).
 Monte Sant'Angelo, in the province of Foggia, is our next destination. We passed by the castle with its different bastions and its Torre dei Giganti. It is popular belief that the ghost of Bianca Lancia, The mistress of Emperor Frederick II, can be heard sighing in winter. After that, we descended the charming pebbled winding roads with shops lined up on both sides, displaying locally produced bread, cheese, pastas, pottery..., until we reached the Sanctuary of San Michele, a long-awaited destination on our list! The sanctuary is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a famous pilgrimage shrine dedicated to the Archangel Michael since The Middle Ages. We spent some time admiring the 13th century octagonal bell tower and the gothic arches as well a statue of St. Michael guarding the entrance of the sanctuary. We then went down the old long stone staircase which leads to the most sacred place of the complex: the grotto. This is where many apparitions of St. Michael took place around the year 490. We felt the reverence and serenity of this religious place. It is believed that this church was consecrated by the Archangel himself rather than by human hands. We visited, next, the sanctuary museum, after which we left the complex and headed towards the old Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore with its beautiful façade and byzantine-style frescoes on its walls. For lunch-tasting we had Caciocavallo cheese with Prosciutto on the delicious Focaccia bread, all locally produced. It is amusing to know that "Caciocavallo" means literally "Cheese on horseback" because of the way it is hung to dry.
 After lunch, a good swim was in order. Mattinata seaside resort was the choice of Enza and Pietro. On our way, the view was breathtaking, a spectacular scenery unique to the Gargano region. We have to admit that Pietro made the ride more adventurous since he drives in a typical southern italian style! Mattinata beach was quite nice with its deep blue waters, beautiful rocks and enchanting grottos. After such a relaxing time, we went back to Andria, but as no trip to this area of the world is complete without your dose of Italian ice cream, we stopped in Margherita di Savoia for some good quality gelato. Dinner in Andria was served in a local restaurant. It consisted of various appetizers, special locally-made dishes, salads, peas and dessert, accompanied by some good aromatic wine. Delicious! We ambled back to the comfort of our room for a peaceful night's sleep.

 Day 3: 12 July 2013

 Today we chose some energy-boosting snacks and an Italian Cappuccino for breakfast before setting sights on Barletta. We started with the castle, an enormous monument with a big moat all around it. From the inner courtyard, one sees the different architectural styles that characterize the castle: From the original erection by the Normans, to a later enlargement by Frederick II, to some further expansion under the House of Anjou, to the final creation of the present form under the Spanish control. The castle has a fine museum with various sculptures and carved coats of arms in its archeological section, a library, and a cinema. Some of the underground rooms possess incredible Acoustic properties and the castle's top presents a very scenic view. Barletta's cathedral is a stone's throw from the castle. It combines both Roman and Gothic elements. We enjoyed traditional Italian rice throwing during a wedding ceremony.
 After some local shopping, Enza took us to a well-known location: La Cantina della Sfida (The Cellar of the Challenge). In this medieval bar, in 1503, over dinner, reacting to verbal abuse, Italian knights challenged the French ones to a duel (involving 26 knights). The Italians won and this victory was an early manifestation of Italian national pride.
 Lunch Tasting follows with medium-crust Foccacia Pizza and a drink. We continued to see what might be the most famous monument in Barletta: The Colossus. It is an imposing bronze statue of a Byzantine Emperor of uncertain identity, about 5 meters high. According to legend, by claiming he was the shortest man in Barletta, he saved the city from invasion.
 Our next destination is the fascinating Castel Del Monte. This UNESCO World Heritage Site, perched on top of a small hill, is a 13th century castle built by Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II. What is intriguing about it is that it is not known with absolute certainty for which purpose this monument was built. The castle/fortress has an unusual geometric design: An octagonal plan with an octagonal tower at each corner. Many architectural styles have been fused together in amazing harmony. The interior features two levels connected by spiral staircases, high cross-vaulted ceilings, narrow arrow slits, some broken pieces of marble and mosaic, etc... Enza did a really great job explaining some historical points as well as many perplexing issues that only a professional guide could elucidate. Before leaving, we had a refreshing walk around the castle, enjoying the sight of a countless number of trees down in the Murgia plateau. Castel Del Monte is a must-visit must-feel place.
 Our next destination is Trani, but we returned first to Andria to pick up the cutest little girl, Luana. She will be our companion for the rest of the day. Our visit to Trani started with the Cathedral of San Nicola Pellegrino. Built in his honor, construction of the cathedral began in 1099, the same year he was canonized. The relics of San Nicola Pellegrino (not to be confused with the more famous San Nicola of Bari/Myra) are venerated in the church. The cathedral, right on the water's edge, has a splendid Romanesque architecture. Its façade boasts a rose window above the marvelously ornate arches of the portal. The adjacent bell tower above the arch is simply majestic. The crypt (not much altered, unlike the rest of the church which has been modernized), has a multitude of nicely lit arches and roman-style pillars' capitals. Also found inside the church are parts of beautiful old floor mosaics dating back to the 12th century, a reminder of the original decoration. An original (1175) carved door is kept inside the church as well. Just in front of the cathedral, in the immediate vicinity of the coast, stands the castle of Trani, built by Frederick II. Although it has been later modified, the castle retained its essential structure. We admired the fort from outside.
 We went next to the church and monastery of Santa Maria di Colonna, eager to see the famous 15th century wooden Crucifix for which the inhabitants of Trani have a great devotion. Enza was skeptical about the possibility of such a visit since the church is, more often than not, closed. She thought we needed all the luck...and lucky we were!!! A wedding ceremony was underway!
 After that, we went to the Villa Comunale, which consists essentially of a park with gardens of various floral designs, a kids' playground, a pond, a natural reserve of plants and trees, ornamented fountains, etc... all overlooking the sea. The four of us spent some joyful time there, to the delight of little Luana. We strolled, next, to the port. Walking around the area is very relaxing and the surrounding is absolutely enchanting. It was refreshing to breathe the sea air and watch the docked yachts and sailboats. The sunset was magical and the restaurants right on the harbor enhanced the beauty of the scenery. Dinner followed: Focaccia, Fish and Vegetables, Octopus, Pasta, Mussels and a cold Beer: Just a lovely evening. We drove back to Andria for a well deserved rest.

 Day 4: 13 July 2013

 In our first day review we mentioned "The Holy Thorn" which is kept in Andria's Cathedral and Antonio who promised to show it to us later. Antonio kept his promise. After breakfast we rushed to the cathedral and soon we were in the presence of the famed holy relic. The thorn comes from the Crown of Thorns that was forced down upon the head of Christ during his Passion. A miracle is associated with the thorn: Purple-colored stains on the thorn turn blood red only when the Annunciation Day, March 25th, coincides with Good Friday. Many such occurrences have been recorded throughout centuries, the latest being on March 25th 2005. Filled with strong emotions, we thanked Antonio, who was kind enough to give us a DVD about the precious thorn, and left the church to meet Enza.
 Today we explore one of the most beautiful of nature's wonders: The Castellana caves. At a maximum depth of more than 120m and length of more than 3300m, the grotto is an underground treasure. Fascinating Stalagmites and Stalactites formations, Crystals and Curtains decorate the various caves and are a constant reminder of the power and gracefulness of nature. Caverns are referred to as "La Grave", "Caverna Nera", "Grotta Bianca" and "Caverna del Precipizio". We moved from one cave to the other through a maze of pathways, following a very knowledgeable guide, while enjoying the constant internal temperature of 18 degrees in this hot summer day. The last cave (The White Cave ("Grotta Bianca")) is definitely the most stunning. Throughout the complex, the limestone formations have assumed the strangest shapes, dubbed "The Owl", "The Altar", "The Dome", "The Little Virgin Mary", "The Camel", "The Desert Corridor" and so on... all illuminated in a suggestive and impressive way. We immersed ourselves in this amazing spectacle of nature before exiting the caves.
 We grabbed next a Pepperoni Pizza at a restaurant right in the vicinity of the caves and drove to Fasano where a very positive experience is awaiting us in its Zoo Safari. Instead of the traditional viewing of captive animals as in typical zoo situations, here you observe wildlife from all over the globe roam freely in a big open space. The cage element has been reduced to a considerable degree. Enza drove us through the safari zoo in her vehicle. We had the great chance of seeing so many animals up close. When first entering the park, one sees mouflons, deer, sheep, water buffaloes, to name a few. After passing some gates, you are in lions and tigers (little further) territories. They were only a few meters from the car (with the windows closed!), allowing some great photos opportunities. Asian black bears were also present. What a thrill! We then drove among some non carnivorous animals (windows open!): Elephants, giraffes, bison, zebras, ponies, ostriches, llamas, camels, etc... The funniest moment was when a giraffe poked its head through the window, obviously looking for some snack. You can actually feed this intruder out of the palm of your hand. The next ride was the monkeys train. Benefiting from the safety of an armored train style stagecoach, you access the baboon territory. These monkeys are quite strong and aggressive. They climb up on all parts of the wagon, harassing everybody. It was an exciting excursion in the village of the apes. We rode next a small train around the reserve to see some more animals more clearly, like black panthers, leopards, gorillas and chimpanzees. Our tour ends by the lake of large mammals where you can observe seals, brown bears, polar bears, white rhinos and hippopotami.
 We traveled further south in the Apulian region until we reached Ostuni, "The White City". As you approach this picturesque town on a hill top from the road, you will immediately fall prey to the charm of its dazzling whitewashed houses. In the main square stands the column of Sant'Oronzo, the patron of the city, topped by the statue of the saint. It is a monument of major interest, a bit less than 21m tall and made of local stones. The old town is most enchanting with its alleys, arches, staircases, restaurants, cafes and small shops selling local food and crafts. You can feel the Middle Ages throughout this very well preserved maze of ancient winding narrow cobblestone streets, embellished by colorful flowers. We kept going up until we reached the Cathedral, a very elegant late 15th century monument, located at the highest point of the historic center. The façade, which blends both Romanesque and Gothic styles, has a very unusual shape: A magnificent and graceful combination of concave and convex patterns, crowning a beautiful central rose window and two lateral smaller ones, all richly carved. The interior of the church is rather sober. Nearby, one finds the Bishop's palace, built around 1560, and a stone bridge (Arco degli Incalzi) connecting the palace to the cloisters of the cathedral. On our way down, we cooled off with a cup of ice cream then headed back to our room in Andria where we prepared ourselves for dinner.
 We were picked up by Pasqua and her husband Nicola, whom we already met the day of our arrival to Apulia. The destination was Masseria Terre di Traiano, near the Alta Murgia National park. It is a big old farmhouse which has been beautifully restored. There is an oil museum with huge olive press machines, oil barrels, and all the equipment needed for olive oil extraction. Some ceramics were also displayed. Right before dinner, Pasqua introduced us to the owner, a very friendly and hospitable person who puts people at ease right away. The dinner wing was quite vast and the tables large enough. The food was simple and well presented. We savored, the four of us, a wide variety of fresh ingredients and original dishes, before going back to our lovely room.

 Day 5: 14 July 2013

 Early in the morning, Pasqua and Nicola took us for a Croissant and Cappuccino breakfast in a small Coffee Shop in Andria, the warm town we are getting acquainted with day after day.
 Bari, the capital city of the Apulia region, is waiting for us! . After a car ride in the city, we arrived at the famous Castello Svevo, one of Bari's most defining landmarks. It is a formidable, dominating seafront fortress whose construction started in 1132 under the auspices of the Norman King Roger II. It was completely destroyed in 1156 by William I of Sicily before being extensively rebuilt in 1233 by Frederick II of Swabia, the builder of so many castles in Apulia. After its acquisition by the Aragonese, the castle was eventually donated to the polish queen Sforza Bona. We admired from outside the ramparts, walls, towers, the huge moat and the drawbridge of this impressive stronghold. Pasqua provided us with all the relevant information regarding the castle. She is a very knowledgeable guide.
 From the edge of the historic center, we walked straight to its heart to see Bari's Cathedral, the seat of the Archbishop. The Cathedral is a prominent example of the Apulian Romanesque style. The white façade is simple with three portals of the 11th century, a rose window with carved monsters and curious animal figures on its upper semicircle. The inside is very beautiful but rather sober. This is due to the fact that all baroque structures and subsequent baroque additions throughout the centuries have been cleaned up. The transept, the matronaeum (a tribune gallery for women), the marmo columns, the magnificent pulpit, the ciborium, the traces of the frescoes on the walls, and some pavement mosaics that date back to the old Byzantine church, all contribute to the attractiveness of this monument. The architecturally stunning crypt houses the remains of San Sabino, bishop of Canosa from 514, and one of the two patrons of Bari. According to the liturgy, he is a protector against poisons. The relics of Santa Colomba are also kept in the crypt as well as an ancient and valuable icon of the Madonna Odigitria.
 We took then a stroll through the streets of the old quarter, a very nice place to wander. The historic center of Bari is a very vibrant one, jammed with people filling its narrow streets and small squares. There are plenty of quaint shops with good handicrafts, souvenirs and antiques. We kept walking until we reached Bari's main attraction: Basilica di San Nicola. The square in front of the church is quite lively with innumerable people flocking to it, besides being a stop for tourist small trains as well. The Basilica, of Romanesque style with increased charm due to Byzantine influence, was built between 1087 and 1197. The façade is imposing, sober, and features two heavy unfinished towers and three vertical sections matching the nave and the aisles inside. The central portal is decorated with rich carvings marrying different styles. A privilege that has been granted to the sailors who brought the Saint's relics to Bari is the right to be buried outside the basilica. Their names are marked to this day. Inside, the spacious church houses an imposing Romanesque sculptural artwork: the marble throne of Bishop Elias. Over the altar there is a finely chiseled stone canopy. The gilded ceiling is superb. The arches, granite columns, pilasters, and carved capitals are a joy to behold. The most spiritual place is the crypt which holds the remains of San Nicola, Bari's favorite Saint. The crypt has spectacular columns and arches, some precious floor mosaics, and many frescos of the life of the Saint. One can admire, touch, or turn around the miraculous red marble column enclosed by an iron grating. It is interesting to note that the basilica is an important pilgrimage site for both Catholics and Orthodox. Many devotees from Eastern Europe and Russia pay their respects to Saint Nicholas in a small Orthodox chapel in the crypt. Bari's old town and its attractions are not to be missed.
 Our next visit is to another UNESCO World Heritage site, Alberobello, famous for its unique trulli. After consuming some Tomato Focaccia slices, we started our Alberobello tour. The village is enchanting and the atmosphere fabulous. This is a perfect place to go if you feel the need to live a fairy tale. A trullo is a dry stone hut with a dome-shaped roof. Small tiles are stacked one on top of the other and cavities are filled with smaller stones. No mortar or cement is used to bind a trullo's blocks of stone. For some trulli, religious or mystical symbols are painted onto their distinctive conical roofs. The thick whitewashed walls with their brilliant homogeneous surface are very pleasing to the eyes and heart. It is among these wonders that we walked for a couple of hours. There are many spots to take nice pictures of these beautiful "fungi". After admiring from outside the Baslica Minore, we explored the interior of a trullo. The majority of trulli have one room under a roof cone, with supplementary spaces in vaulted alcoves. Niches made in the wall with curtains separation would create a sleeping area. Food products and miniature trulli can be purchased inside trulli that have been converted to shops. Mesmerized by this magical place, we left Alberobello.
 After a short drive we arrived to Locorotondo, officially listed as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. The hamlet sits on a hilltop with astounding views of olive groves and vineyards in the surrounding countryside below. One particularity of Locorotondo is the concentric layout of the streets lined with buildings in its historic center. Luminous whitewashed walls and lanes glistened in that lovely afternoon sun, as we made our way through the alleys of the village. Locorotondo has its own characteristic building structure, the Cummerse: A rectangular house with a peaked gable roof. We were also lucky to be in Locorotondo when the town was running its annual competition for the most beautiful balcony. In fact, the majority of balconies and staircases were adorned with vibrantly colorful flowers arranged in equally vivid pots and boxes. There are so many passageways to small courtyards with nice gardens. After visiting the church of San Rocco, the town's Patron Saint who saved it from the plague, we sat, the four of us, in a calm laid-back atmosphere, and enjoyed some delicious Italian ice cream.
 Nicola drove us next to a gorgeous seaside town: Polignano a Mare. After such a long Apulian summer day, we were eager to take a dip in the Adriatic. The crystal-clear water of the beautiful little bay in the vicinity of the impressive Roman Bridge Lama Monachile was just what we needed. The view through the bridge arches down towards the cove is just sublime. The white-pebbled beach, quite crowded, is flanked, on two sides, by imposing cliffs used as diving sites. We happily bathed in the pure relaxing waters.
 The city historic centre is a few steps away from the beach. Its main square is reached via Arco Marchesale, the old gateway. The late-13th Century Chiesa Matrice Santa Maria Assunta overlooks the piazza. The façade has both romanesque and baroque elements. Many artworks are housed inside, including sculptures by Stefano da Putignano. A statue of san Vito, the city Patron Saint, is also kept inside. Cosy Cafes, small shops, cute alleyways, houses built into cliffs and the sea just within walking distance, all contribute to the charm of the old town. Perched atop limestone cliffs, wide terraces with panoramic views of numerous natural caves high above the blue and shining waters of the Adriatic, add to the overall appeal of the place. We went next for a leisurely seafront promenade and ended up resting on a bench right next to the very lifelike statue of the famous singer Domenico Modugno, son of Polignano. The international success "volare" is one of his achievements.
 We had dinner in a nearby gourmet restaurant. The food was delightful with high quality ingredients. Besides the good white wine, the generous servings consisted of different kinds of breads, sardines, various shrimp plates, fried fish, Salmon bouchees, exotic plates, salads, cabbage, tortellini with seafood, an octopus dish, pasta with mussels and snails, all served with the corresponding exquisite sauces. After we consumed some fine dessert, we met our guides and left the Pearl of the Adriatic filled with that inner satisfaction and happiness that only a Bari-Alberobello-Locorotondo-Polignano day out can evoke.
 We arrived back in Andria late at night. We were exhausted but contented. We are very thankful to Pasqua, a learned person with great dedication to her job. We thank Nicola for his courtesy and kindness. They showed great patience during this very long day.

 Day 6: 15 July 2013

 Today we will be visiting Matera, the capital city of the neighboring Basilicata region. After the usual breakfast, we were picked up by Pietro, the tough but gentle person. Roberta accompanied us as well. With Pietro as our pilot, we swept through the landscape of the Alta Murgia Plateau, and before you know it we were in Matera. We met, in the Main Square and heart of the city, the local guide Silvio Scocuzza. Silvio is a very well-cultured and dedicated person. Beside his vast knowledge, his great enthusiasm for his town, his clear commitment to his job and his very good English proficiency, Silvio is remarkably polite and respectful to others. He is a warm and amiable person. We wholeheartedly loved this tour (which we discuss next) and we highly recommend Silvio if you are looking for an excellent guide. You will learn a lot from him. His contacts are shown at the end of Day 6 review.
 After seeing the 13th century church/convent of San Domenico, we arrived at the first viewing point of the Sassi (stones). The Sassi are very old, formidable rock-cut settlements. "Houses" were initially excavated into the soft "tufo" stone but later on people started building more "houses" on top of the original caverns. Some alleys in the Sassi area are located on houses rooftops as well. Nearby, you can find the largest cistern in the city. It collected rain water which was filtrated and then delivered in a carefully designed and controlled way to the Sassi below.
 We saw next the Town Hall which is now a music school, and a Norman castle with a small remaining part of the original structure. The tour continues through the streets of this unusual and amazing place to the Cathedral in Piazza Duomo. The church, whose construction started in 1203 and finished in 1270, was closed for renovation but the outside of this famous sacred monument was nevertheless lovely. The Romanesque façade presents a statue of La Madonna della Bruna, the saint Patroness of the city, flanked on the sides by statues of the saints Peter and Paul. A niche carved in the external wall contains the statue of Saint Eustace, the first protector of the city. A rose window with sixteen rays dominates the façade. Above this "wheel of fortune" is a representation of Saint Michael subjugating the Dragon, surrounded by three figures of men from different social classes of the period, in probable reference to the cycle of Life. The four Evangelists and the twelve Apostles are alluded to by a similar number of small columns and half columns at the top, respectively. To the left of the cathedral is the narrow passage where the count Carlo Tramontano, a loathed local lord, was assassinated as he exited the cathedral. A plaque commemorates the event. The count's unfinished 15th century castle is situated on a close hill.
 Next, we went down the beautiful and wide stairways to the lower part of the town, the Sassi district, Matera's claim to fame. We were reveling in the stunning beauty of the scenery. It is unlike anything else you would ever see in your travels. You get a great sense of history here, coupled with a magical and mysterious feeling about life evolution. Emotions run high when you realize that Matera is the only place in the world where people can exult in the fact that they still live in the same dwellings of their ancestors of 9000 years ago. The Sassi are excavated/built on the side of a canyon (La Gravina). We saw a complex of two rupestrian (excavated out of the rock) churches: Santa Maria di Idris and San Giovanni in Monterrone connected through a tunnel. It is interesting to note that the city was once covered by water, fact revealed by the fossilized shells embedded in many walls.
 In the centre of the Sassi district stands the only church that was built on rock rather than being hewn into it: San Pietro Caveoso. The façade has three rectangular portals and three niches with statues of the Virgin, Saint Paul and Saint Peter. On the left side there is the bell tower with its distinguished quadrangular form. The location of the church is quite panoramic with a view of the canyon and its stream.
 Our walk continued through a maze of meandering narrow alleys, staircases, steep cobblestone roads, cave churches scattered here and there like Santa Lucia Alle Malve, until we reached a typical cave dwelling where the former living arrangements are displayed. The cavern is divided into several cave-like feel rooms including a kitchen, a bedroom, a living room and a wine cellar. One can see a variety of household items like a baby cradle, a loom, farming tools, assorted dried vegetables, and so on. It is amazing how old settlers managed to pull through without running waters and toilet facilities. It is also interesting to know that people shared their houses with their livestock. Since the "tufo" rock is fairly soft, water infiltrates and a humid environment ensues. These ancient residences are absolutely worth a visit.
 We were next for some rock-hewn churches exploration, in particular those in the Sant'Antonio Abate (St. Anthony the Great) Complex: A series of four connected churches, built between the 12th and 13th centuries and that have been inhabited by people for a period of time. Original frescoes of reduced quality (due to humidity and destruction by the locals) decorate the walls: The life of Saint George, Santa Barbara in the tower, Santa Dorotea, Saint Leonard with chains in his hands, San Donato's face, San Antonio Abate, San Sebastiano with the arrows, and some more. In one of the rooms, you can find three different layers of fresco. After these churches lost their liturgical functions, they have at time served as wine stores. You can still see the bathtubs used to press the grape, with punched holes to fill the barrels. Some walls and altars have been demolished to make way for wine cellars on the lower floors. Greek crosses within Catholic churches bear witness to a commendable cultural mixing. We saw one more time fossils of shells as well as small channels to conduct water from outside to the cistern within the cave.
 The ability of the population to cut and hollow the rocks without modern machinery and to survive the harsh environment, the amazing and intricate task of digging tunnels from the natural reservoir through the mountain and distributing water to the whole lower Sassi region, the harmonious blend of rocks, houses and churches, all of the above contributed to the declaration of The Sassi and the Park of the Rupestrian churches of Matera a Unesco World Heritage Site. We had the most riveting experience in this enchanted world of stones.
 By now, we were starving. We rode back to the Apulian region, to Altamura, famous for its bread. The Pane di Altamura is one of the most delicious bread one can ever taste. This special bread is known to last over fifteen days. After a Salame and Caciocavallo sandwich, a drink, a dessert and an Italian coffee, we were quite energized for the continuation of our trip. Silvio told us a chilling story about a medieval local Count, Giovanni Pipino, who was quartered by four horses and whose parts were placed in four different locations, one of them being the high, thick and aged wall of Altamura. The leg of Pipino is carved in the stone there.
 After a leisurely stroll through the city streets, we reached Piazza Duomo with its awe-inspiring Cathedral. This Romanesque worship place is just stunning with the main portal being the star attraction. It was built in 1232 by Emperor Frederick II (who is also the refounder of the city) and soon became a palatine church. It was partially destroyed in the 1316 earthquake and was rebuilt later on by the Angevins. In what might be considered by some scholars a symbolic act of defiance against Frederick, the front of the church and its back were switched around. The exuberant main portal exhibits numerous biblical scenes from the life of Christ, all meticulously designed and surprisingly true to life. Another dominating feature of the main façade is a fifteen-ray rose window with a lamb in its center, symbolizing the Savior. Above this typically Apulian window is a balcony with a statue of the Madonna, flanked by two bell towers. Two stone lions guard the majestic church entrance.
 The interior consists of a nave, two aisles and seven bays. It is now covered with Stucco in the baroque style that simulates marble. The bishop's throne and pulpit are from the 16th century. In the triforium, we saw some nice columns with beautiful and differently carved capitals. We visited the galleries in the second floor. From the windows, one can see below the square which used to be the old market. We did not see any fresco, since Frederick was accustomed to build castles rather than churches.
 Not far from the Cathedral, Silvio showed us some Culs-de-sac that locals used to trap the city invaders. We continued our car ride on tranquil country roads until we arrived to the famous Pulo di Altamura (dolina), about eight Kilometers from the town. It looks like a huge crater caused by a fallen meteorite, but in fact it is a giant hole created by waters and winds eroding the rock over the centuries. The Pulo is a karst depression carved into the limestone. Primitive men lived in some original Stone Age caves, right before our eyes. In the valley below, warmer temperatures favored the growth of vegetation. It took millions of years for this fairly unique and natural spectacle to unravel.
 We thanked Silvio, said our farewell to him and headed back to Andria. We were quite exhausted. We showered and enjoyed a short snooze in our pleasant room. Later in the evening, we joined Enza, Roberta and Luana to go out to dinner in Bisceglie, a lovely town on the Adriatic. The restaurant was right by the water with captivating views of Trani Cathedral, the Gargano Promontory and the sea itself. We sat in a very cosy candle lit corner, comforted by the touch of the gentle sea breeze. The food was excellent and inventive. It was the kind of ambiance that is just right for a romantic dinner for two. We thank Roberta and Enza for such a charming evening.

 Silvio Scocuzza: Official Tour Guide in German and English of the whole Basilicata and Apulia region Mobile (+39)3924725785 Email: silvio.scocuzza@tin.it

 Day 7: 16 July 2013

 Today we visit the south-eastern part of Apulia, a relatively long-distance destination. Pietro and Enza escorted us, quite early, to grab something to eat, before we drove on to explore Lecce, a mind-blowing town.
 If you like monuments with rich Baroque decoration, then you are exactly where you should be. Indeed, Lecce is a haven for Baroque style architecture. We were welcomed by a local guide and our tour started at Saint Oronzo square, the center of the city. Saint Oronzo is Lecce's beloved patron saint (He is also the patron saint of Ostuni, as mentioned earlier). The saint is credited for saving the city from the plague in 1656. His statue perches atop the column in the center of the piazza, blessing the city. This column was a gift from Brindisi and it marked the end of the Via Appia: An important ancient Roman road that connected Rome to Brindisi.
 Not far from the column are the remains of a second century Roman Amphitheater. In its day, the elliptical arena would have had a capacity of 25000 seated spectators. Only a portion of the theater has been brought to life. The rest remains buried but hopefully unforgotten.
 As we strolled through the streets, dazzling Baroque ornamentation and architectural wonders were found around every corner. Numerous houses, palaces and public buildings are adorned with elegant stone balconies, which are supported by intricate baroque stone carvings, representing grotesque and fanciful mythical human and animal figures as well as real ones.
 A beautiful church, dedicated to Saint Irene, the city's Patroness before 1656, is a five minute walk from the main square. Construction work commenced in 1591 and was achieved in 1639. The front is relatively simple with the Saint's statue standing in a niche with a semicircular arch, surmounting the central portal. On the upper part of the façade, we can read the inscription: "Irene Virgini et Martiri". The city's symbols are noticeably and attractively displayed: La Lupa sotto l'albero di Leccio (The she-wolf under the ilex tree). Some more Baroque structures can be found in the vicinity of Palazzo Palmieri. We particularly liked the four women holding up the columns capitals which in turn support the balcony of the palace.
 The Piazza del Duomo, announced by sculptures of various poets at its entrance, is a delightful complex of several baroque buildings: The Diocesan Museum of Lecce housing its sacred art, the Episcopal palace attached to the church, the impressive 70m-high five-storey bell tower, and the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption. The church was first built in 1144, with repairs in 1230, to be totally restored in the years 1659-1670 by Giuseppe Zimbalo, one of the greatest exponents of the Baroque art in Lecce. The imposing lateral façade of the church is a Baroque masterpiece featuring statues of Saint Oronzo between Saint Justus and Saint Fortunatus. The portal is preciously decorated with reliefs of dancing little angels. The main façade is sober with statues of San Gennaro and Saint Louis of Toulouse on the upper level, and a large heavy bronze door constructed in 2000, flanked by carvings of Saints Peter and Paul. The door exhibits Jesus Christ between the sun and the moon, alluding to the concept of the world turning around him.
The inside of the cathedral generally follows the Latin cross plan and is rather dark with a sensational ceiling and a beautiful floor. Baroque chapels oozing with opulence are found all over the cathedral. In all but one of the chapels, we can find a decorative style, known as Napoli Baroque, which makes use of exuberant marble and gold ornamentation. One chapel, however, that of the Nativity scene by Gabriele Riccardi, stands out from the rest: Only local Leccesian stone is used. This typical soft stone can be processed to malleability and to assume all kinds of imaginable forms and wonderful shapes. Immersion in milk would protect the stone from weather damage and enhance its peculiar amber color.
 The grandiose Basilica di Santa Croce, tucked away around the corner of an alley, is the most representative edifice of Baroque art in Lecce. Its construction dragged on for quite a long time. It is just marvelous. You could spend hours gazing at a veritable explosion of intricate sculptures of monsters, cherubim, saints, mythological creatures, floral friezes, grotesque figures and vegetables, with a remarkable quality of craftsmanship. The large rose window, full of sculptural embroidery, is unsurpassed in beauty. The interior follows a Latin cross plan with three naves divided by columns with opulently decorated capitals. The cross-shaped vaulted ceilings are wonderful. The extensively and sumptuously carved swirling columns (colonna tortile), all made from the local smooth Lecce stone, are dazzling. The level of detail is absolutely stunning. The church is entirely lit by elegant chandeliers.
 The tour continued to another popular attraction of the city: A typical artisan workshop producing all kinds of figures made from the traditionally famous Papier-Mâché (Cartapesta). We were given a look at how their products are made. Real pieces of art are manufactured here: dancers, angels, nativity representations, dolls, saints (some of them in natural proportions!), shepherds, toys and masks, all made by hand with passion and dexterity. It is interesting to note that these graceful models are very robust as well.
 For lunch-tasting, we were served some typical food of the region: Panzerotto (fried calzone stuffed with mozzarella and tomato sauce), Puccia (olive and onion studded bread), Rustico (baked savory cake made of flaky pastry stuffed with bits of tomatoes, mozzarella, béchamel sauce, and black pepper) and Pasticciotto (delicious soft pie filled with custard/pastry cream) We took a final moment to soak up the majesty of the place before leaving to Otranto.
 On this lovely warm day, and after such a culturally-exciting tour in Lecce, the idea of going to the beach in Otranto received a unanimous acclaim. The resort was bustling with life and colors. The Sun's sparkling rays glittered on the spotlessly clean golden sands. We had a reinvigorating swim in the moderately wavy waters, caressed by a soft gentle breeze. We fully enjoyed these happy moments.
 We entered the city old quarters through its beautiful gate. The ancient monumental walls and towers that were erected to protect Otranto, greatly modified at a later stage by Alfonso of Aragon, enclave most of the charming medieval town. The Romanesque Cathedral of Santa Maria Annunziata, located on a hill, is an extraordinary piece of work. It was consecrated in 1088. A superb 16-ray gothic rose window stands above the façade's entrance portal. The interior features a nave and two aisles, a semicircular apse and two rows of columns, believed to originate from a Minerva temple, topped by dissimilar capitals. The highlight of the Cathedral, however, is its fascinating 12th century polychrome mosaic ground floor, which runs the whole length of the church. One witnesses a rather unique sight: A large and impressive representation of the Tree of Life with various scenes being depicted on its growing branches. Biblical Narrative, mythological figures, medieval bestiaries and legendary characters, all entirely mosaic made, immediately capture your heart and enchant your soul.
 An important section in the right aisle is the chapel of the Martyrs. The bones and skulls of 800 Otranto citizens are housed here. These recently canonized martyrs were beheaded after the 1480 siege. The "stone of sacrifice" is preserved behind the altar. A quite mournful and suggestive hymn is constantly played in the room.
 We also had a taste of the baroque since church officials have kept inside it four columns sculptured by Riccardi, as a reminder of its older decorative style.
 We left the Cathedral for a walking tour through the crowded alleys of the city historic center. The streets are full of taverns, restaurants, and small shops brimming with souvenir items and local products. The very pleasant stroll in this colorful and lively town ended in a huge waterfront square called heroes' square. The views of the bay and the turquoise sea are awesome. You could devotedly spend hours in peace and contemplation.
 After we returned to Andria in the late afternoon, Pietro said goodbye to us, hoping that we had a great time in Southern Italy and that we dearly remember Apulia and its people. Well, Pietro, we have the most wonderful memories and the warmest feelings for Apulia and all the welcoming people we met there!
 We then went shopping for clothes, took a relaxing shower in our room, and quietly walked to a nearby restaurant for dinner. Wine in a jar and cold beer paved the way for a Bruschetta (garlic-rubbed toasted slices of bread topped with chopped tomatoes, basil and olive oil), a Carpaccio (a dish of thinly sliced raw meat served with Parmesan and Rucola), a plate of delicious fried mussels, an enticing vegetarian Pizza, a mouth-watering platter of fried Fiori di Zucca combined with mussels, a cauldron of baked seafood with tomato sauce and melted cheese, and a delightful tiramisu for dessert. We were on the verge of licking our plates!
 That night, we slept with sadness hovering in our hearts. It was our last night in Andria.

 Day 8: 17 July 2013

 This is our last day in Andria, Apulia. We started it with some salty snacks, chocolate-filled croissants and of course Cappuccino with whipped cream. We were with Enza and her daughter Luana, the little treasure. We first visited a nearby confectionery and museum (confetteria e museo). Sweets, candies, chocolates, dragees, bonbons, marzipan, coming in all shapes, sizes, scents, flavors and colors, are a real feast for the eyes (and for the mouth!). Typical products of the region were on display: Tenerelli (sugared Apulian almonds of different colors indicating different periods of one's life), Cannellini and Diabolini (used in traditional weddings). A fountain oozing with soft milky chocolate surely enhanced our appetite. A beautifully painted ceiling caught our attention also.
 Downstairs from the area reserved for sale, is the multi-section museum of the store, exhibiting the original well-maintained machines and tools of the era, used in the manufacture of the delicacies. A very gentle and informative local employee explained to us, in great detail, the whole process of producing these sweets from basic ingredients to the final result. One can find tempering machines, mills for chocolate grinding, sieves, moulds, stencils, almond peelers, bassine (copper coating pans to heat the almonds), refining machines, saucepans, macerators, vacuum steam appliances, rotating basins, vacillating copper containers (branlante), and the list continues. Old candy boxes, elegant containers and wrapping papers are also exposed. It was also interesting to see the founder's desk, typing machine, old phone, clock and documents. This very pleasant visit concluded with various tastings of products, some of them being very patiently hand decorated, all with natural colors. These tasty treats are a real delight for the palate. You will be spoiled for choice.

Originally there were four gates to the city of Andria. Only one still exists: La Porta S. Andrea, also known as "The Arch of Frederick II". The Emperor, facing rebellion during the sixth crusade, was hailed by Andria's families who swore loyalty to him and built this arch in his honor. In fact, this door has a great historical value since the Emperor and his court entered Andria through it, while being greeted by the nobles. Frederick reciprocated the favor by carving, on the arch, in 1230, the famous words: "Andria fidelis nostris affixa medullis", which translates to: "Andria is faithful and connected to our hearts"

 We went next to a Caseificio (Dairy-Creamery) Artigianale which also houses a small museum. We watched the factory workers making Mozzarella. It was pleasant to see how they stretch and mold the cheese into various shapes with their bare hands in hot water. In the museum section, old equipment and instruments are exhibited: Spatulas, cheese cutting machines, boxes to preserve the Mozzarella, l'antica macchina per Panna (Cream), the macchina del Burro (butter), milk containers of all sizes, old photos of people selling milk porta a porta (door-to-door), people selling ricotta cheese and farmers selling milk straight from the cow.
 We tasted cheese in the degustation room, a nice wooden-roof room in an upper floor, while watching a video about its making. The platter consisted of a variety of cheeses: Caciocavallo dolce, Caciocavallo picante, Mozzarelline, Pecorino, Ricotta with Vincotto (wine), and the famous Burrata di Andria. Tarallini (some kind of pretzel common in Italy) and slices of Altamura bread were also served. It was just delicious. We enjoyed every bit of it. The Burrata was wonderful and tasted divine. It is the queen of the plate.

We thanked the store's owner and drove back to our room. It was time to say Goodbye to Enza and Luana. Over the last eight days, we have become good friends with Enza (rather than clients) and this moment was quite uneasy for all of us. We hugged each other with tears in the eyes, exchanged good wishes, and hoped our paths cross again.

 We packed our suitcases and after some resting time we had our last meal in Andria (and for that matter, in Apulia) in a restaurant right beside our bed and breakfast. We received a very friendly welcome and felt pampered from the minute we arrived to the minute we left. There are various large rooms, all impeccably furnished with beautiful walls decoration. The wine and the Italian craft beer were excellent. We had a charcuterie and cheese platter, different kinds of bread, Prosciutto-filled figs and cooked octopus with beans and vegetables.

 Roberta and her fiancé Nicola showed up, a couple of hours later, ready to take us to the train station in Bisceglie. Once there, they categorically refused to leave before the arrival of our train (going to Milano) and to make sure that we are on the right one and that everything is in order. They are friendly, caring and warmhearted people. Moreover, Nicola, being a perfect gentleman and who has already helped us push our suitcases from the entrance of the station to the platform, carried for us our luggage on board the train. We are grateful to both of them.
 Some time later, the whistle blew and the train started moving.

Apulian People are genuine, helpful, simple and affectionate. The region offers a rich variety of sites, whether of cultural nature or beautiful landscapes and beaches or religious edifices. Apulia has its splendor, its charm and a character of its own, rivaling that of the major more known and visited places in Italy. We have always had a tremendous amount of love and respect for Italy, its people and its culture. Our positive feelings have increased considerably after visiting Apulia.

 This 8-day tour was completely organised by: "Turisti in Puglia"
 Roberta Attimonelli: Official Tourist Guide in Italian Language. Info- Roberta: (+39)3496059899
 Enza Sgaramella: Official Tourist Guide in Italian, English and Spanish Language. Info-Enza: (+39)3395727462
 We highly recommend this company without reservation. We stayed in the following accommodation: B&B Delle Imperatrici Via Corradino di Svevia, 14-76123 Andria (BT) www.bbdelleimperatrici.com info@bbdelleimperatrici.com


 Roula Antonios, Hadi Jardak.(Lebanon)